Bus lag and flat arse! Rio Gallegos to Ushuaia by bus and ferry

April, 2011

I’ve coined a new term…”Bus Lag”!

If there’s such a condition, I was starting to feel it. Not only in my butt but also in my brain and still another 12-hour trip ahead from Rio Gallegos to Ushuaia! Almost expected pressure sores and callouses to form on my butt from the hours of sitting on busses…


As the hotel in Puerto Madryn would not indulge us in an earlier than 8 am breakfast (although breakfast was included in the price), we had coffee and croissants upstairs at the bus station restaurant. This quick snack was surprisingly cheap and good.

The Marga bus company proved efficient but it was as if the 2 drivers were on a mission to make the fastest time to Ushuaia with barely any stops apart from the obligatory border crossings and ferry stop.

We made the journey in 11 hours, which is an hour early but with sore butts and very hungry!

A couple of films are shown in the bus on this leg and a small snack is provided.

Most of the scenery is barren, flat, scrubby, and treeless but still has a certain beauty. The scenery became breathtaking from Tulhuin onwards, which is about 1.5-hours out of Ushuaia. And when the snow-capped glaciers and winding roads became an integral part of the road. If you suffer from car sickness, then I suggest maybe taking something prior to the trip is a good idea.


As there is no bus station in Ushuaia, everyone was dropped off in the middle of the city and we caught a taxi ($AR15) to Cabañas Candelas de Ushuaia (AR$230 Dbl). And what a pleasant surprise awaited us with this accommodation!

Not really cabins but a 2-storey apartment with central heating in every room, even in the 2nd toilet. You definitely need central heating this far south in the globe. There is a fully-equipped kitchenette and a downstairs living area with an extra bed.

Francisco (Manager) is very accommodating and friendly, with contacts all over town.

Freshly-baked bread is delivered by the very kind Francisco each evening for next day’s breakfast and includes ground coffee, condiments, milk, etc. This abode is extremely homely and comfy with loads of soap, towels, and privacy.

This is the best place yet in Argentina and I highly recommend you stay here when in Ushuaia.

The apartment is only 3 kilometres from the centre or a 20-minute (AR$2.4) bus ride, which you can catch from the next block to the cabins.

Argentina: Moonrise over the Beagle Channel

Moonrise over the Beagle Channel

Unfortunately, we only had 4 nights booked and as it is the Easter weekend and booked out, we had to find accommodation elsewhere.

Our new home for 3 nights was in Aijpel B&B (AR$260 Dbl + ensuite). This is about 1.5 kilometres from the town centre, very clean, and the breakfast is wonderful. Although coming from our own apartment, we were spoilt and longed for our privacy once more.

Following Easter, we checked back into the Cabañas Candelas de Ushuaia. Wanted to return to this place for another 3 nights as very impressed with this abode and Francisco’s accommodating Ushuaian friendliness.

Argentina:Ushuaia landscape


Dog Update

You’ve heard the saying “Every man and his dog”?

Well this stands true in Ushuaia as it seems that everyman does indeed have a dog or two and they all do indeed bark (loudly)!

Actually, it is in Ushuaia that we first noticed dogs following us, everywhere. This is the first of my dog updates in South America. I’ll keep you updated with my ongoing dog sagas…

After waiting a while in Ushuaia, decided to push ahead and take another bus to El Calafate for some spectacular moon walking on ice!

Visit my Nilla’s Photography Argentina Gallery for more images. More posts on Argentina at Image Earth Travel.

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