What do mosquitoes, leeches, and salt have in common? Simple, experience all three on any of Taman Negara’s jungle treks in Malaysia after rain.
The Taman Negara rainforest is the oldest in the world at 130 million years of age! This fact alone, should make you want to visit if you find yourself in Central Malaysia.
Visited by thousands of tourists each year, this expansive 4,343 sq kilometre park is stunning and offers thick slippery jungle for trekking, fast-flowing rivers for rafting, and is a nature lover’s delight.
Mosquitoes in a jungle are a given, as are leeches, but especially abundant after rain, which we had a deluge of the previous night before our trek. The salt is to sprinkle over a leech should one of these blood-sucking slimy slugs wish to use you as a free host, until finally discarding you and dropping off!
Leeches rise up like spindly rope-like forms from a path, tree, or wherever they’re hiding, to sniff any passer-by’s blood – eerie to watch.
Considering these jungle walks are more like moderate treks and parts of the walking paths become little less than a mountain goat track, clambering over slippery tree roots and mud, then you’re bound to pick up one of these free-loaders on your hands, ankles, under a shirt, etc. Apart from these nuisances, the treks offer amazing lush scenery, and unique jungle music. What more could one ask for?
You can also do a spectacular Canopy Walk (RM5), which involves walking 45 metres above the jungle canopy on a netted planked bridge for about 550 metres.
This offers not only a different vista of the jungle but an adrenalin rush in places; if you’re not good with heights, or walking on swaying bridges, then this may not be for you. Other jungle activities include swimming holes, night jungle trips, camping overnight or on 9-day treks, fishing, boat rides up the river, rapids, visiting an Asli (Aboriginal) village, and much more.
Taman Negara National Park Permits
The one-time fee to enter the park is RM1 plus RM5 for each camera you take in. This fee is paid at the Park Ranger Office or if you travel up the river by boat, purchase both at Taman Tembeling.
You receive a “Photographic License” for each camera and a “Park Permit” for each person, so ensure to carry these with you whenever you enter the park (even on treks) as potentially, it is a RM20,000 fine, or 3 years’ imprisonment!
Ask the ranger at the office for a map, which shows estimated kilometres for each trek and Hides (crude sleepover shelters).
Distances are not always correct so always allow more time than what the map states. Keep an eye out for small square yellow (infrequent) markers nailed to trees, which denote a path.
Continue from the Canopy Walk (approx. 1.5km from the office) to reach Bukit Terisek, which is a further kilometre straight up a hill matted with tree roots and vines.
The occasional rope is in place to help you up steep slippery rocks/areas (moderate to hard trek).
When you reach the view point, it’s a further 2 kilometres back down the other side to the base – approximately 6 kilometres including the Canopy Walk.
After reaching Bumbun Cegar Anjing (Hide), Lubok Lesong is nowhere to be found.
The slippery path is overgrown and markers are missing. End up doing around 8-kilometres that day but it’s not a straight easy path (moderate trek).
About a 7-kilometre (round trip) easy to moderate round trek, sees you scrambling over some tree roots but it’s pleasant – stop off at the river to cool down.
Take plenty of water and a few snacks as it’s like a sweat bath trekking in this region.
Your clothes are wringing wet and reek following one of these treks. Even the roughest of backpacker will wear their trekking clothes only the once. Wear proper shoes (not sandals), long pants tucked into your socks to help keep leeches out, and long sleeves/T-Shirt.
Don’t forget the salt!
Apart from direct buses from many places in Malaysia such as the Cameron Highlands, you can travel the more challenging and picturesque way of a 3-hour river boat trip from Kuala Tembeling (RM35).
This boat trip is on hard timber seats topped with minuscule padding, which ensures your backside is quite sore by the trip’s end. You won’t be disappointed with the river scenery through the jungle and if you’re lucky, can even spot River Otters – or exceedingly large rats – regardless, it’s worth the pain!
After trawling through many really bad reviews on TripAdvisor about accommodation in Taman Negara (expensive and below average), the Woodlands Resort (RM168, Dbl+bathroom) is a welcomed surprise.
The room is clean and large with plenty of bench/table space for big packs; a writing desk and wardrobe with dresser. Hot and cold water is included and Wifi near the reception area. The air-con works and rooms are cleaned daily, which includes fresh towels.
Very friendly staff and there’s a limited-hour restaurant with reasonably priced and good Malay food.
Breakfast is included in the room’s price, which is help-yourself coffee, tea, orange cordial, toast (butter, jam, caramel spread) but then the surprise is a choice of Mee Goreng or Nasi Goreng (depending on the day) with scrambled eggs, and some fruit (scrambled eggs and Baked Beans if you’re a westerner and don’t ask for the Malay dish).
Dorm beds in town are RM10/night or cheaper, but on checking these out, some look quite “rustic” and grotty…I’m sure there are others around.
If you’re not staying at the expensive Mutiara Resort in the park, you will stay in Kuala Tehan (across river from park), which is a RM1 boat ride each way and only takes a few minutes.
Apart from the expensive floating restaurants along the river, the Tembeling River View Guest House serves decent food at decent prices. Many restaurants make it a point of including “Western Choices” on their menus.
Of course, the further from the riverfront you walk, the cheaper the prices for food.
For early risers (and if your abode doesn’t include breakfast), you can eat cheap and delicious street food in the town where many women set up little stalls with homemade curry puffs, Nasi Lemak, and much more – delicious.
If you’re missing alcohol (none served in the town’s restaurants), then take a cross-river ferry (RM1) to the Mutiara Resort, which serves alcohol at exorbitant prices, for your fix.
Make sure you bring more cash than you need as this town lacks Money Changers and ATMs. After all, it is in the middle of the jungle. The closest ATM is 18kms away in Tembeling (where you pick up the river boat for Taman Negara) or 1.75 hours from Taman Negara.
If you decide to do paid activities, then you’ll be up for RM25-60/activity, which quickly burns through your cash. Obvious, but remember to leave enough cash for the bus/boat ride to your next destination.
After spending five days in Taman Negara, one can’t help but notice the vibe of the town, travellers, and the locals.
Unless doing the more extended jungle treks, most travellers seem to arrive in this laid-back but busy town in the afternoon, do the Canopy Walk the next day, then leave at sparrow-fart, the following morning.
Maybe when visitors only have 2 weeks’ holiday, there’s an urgency to see and do as much as possible, cramming everything into a fleeting moment. Perhaps if time is an issue, then concentrate on one or two areas only and at least savour what a region has to offer; not just mark a place off your checklist. These same people appear to be miserable with locals and other travellers. No smiles and quite arrogant.
If I’ve learnt only one valuable lesson over the 25-plus years of exploring the world, is to at least learn a few local words or phrases of wherever you’re travelling to as this goes a long way. You will be better-received by the locals whilst also having a laugh at your pronunciation of their language. Enjoy a richer experience and try a few local words!
Leaving Taman Negara
The next destination is Jerantut as this town isn’t well known or traversed by travellers. Although Jerantut is in central Malaysia, we’re still kind of heading north.