Surreal Sapa – Northwest Vietnam

January, 2015

Popular with trekkers, Sapa is a small town nestled among the high Hoàng Liên Son Mountain range in Northwest Vietnam and famous for its delicate, rugged scenery, and also its rich cultural diversity.

Sapa – close proximity to the Chinese border

This town overlooks stunning terraced rice fields of the Muong Hoa Valley…you’ve probably seen many surreal photos of this region. And at 1,600+ metres above sea level, Sapa is not only gorgeous but very very cold. Temperatures can drop to freezing and it did snow about 10 days ago but there isn’t any snow around now. Although, the lingering air is so icy that it feels as if it will snow again soon.

As it’s winter (in Sapa it’s the 4 months between November and February), the weather here is very cold, wet, and foggy. The fog is particularly bad and you can get trapped here due to impenetrable fog; quite surreal especially in the chilly evenings when everything is enveloped. So, be prepared to spend extra time here if you visit during the winter.

Sapa, Vietnam, bus

Sleeper bus – 3 seats across on 2 levels

Travel

The bus from Hanoi took about 5.5 hours in an uncomfortable sleeper bus.

As the bus climbs, the scenery becomes breath-taking and absolutely stunning during the many switchbacks on this snakelike road. The online consensus is to go by train, as it’s safer than a bus, car, or motorbike!

Sleeper Bus Tip: You must take your shoes off before entering a sleeper bus and you’re handed a plastic bag whilst you awkwardly carry your daypack, shoes, and climb onto the bus before even finding your seat. Then when it’s time to get off the driver is invariably in a hurry and boots you off expecting you to don your shoes on the grubby road or footpath in the wet or dry, in milliseconds! Drivers of these buses are typically grumpy.

H'mong, Vietnam, Sapa

H’mong Artisans – hand sewn crafts

Vietnam, Sapa, local

Sapa local

Sights

Apart from trying to stay warm, walking around this village-like small but very picturesque town surrounded by spectacular mountain ranges, travellers visit this region for the many treks, walking trails, and to experience the local culture. Check out the local market, as there’s always something interesting to photograph.

  • Lake – Walk south of town and you’ll come across a small manmade picturesque lake that’s lit up with changing coloured lights at night. This seems to be a meeting place for locals so it’s great for people watching.
Sapa, Vietnam, church

Multi-coloured church lights

  • Sapa Church and Town Square – Another great people-watching spot is the Sapa Church steps, which is packed with locals taking each other’s photos, especially on the weekends. The Town Square is the happening place with a younger crowd. Stay here longer than 5 minutes and you will be subjected to badgering by hawkers…mainly H’mong and Red Zhao ladies; they’re friendly enough but rest assured, you will be buying something!
  • Núi Hàm Rồng (Ham Rong Mountain) – For 70,000VND (pick up a free map from the ticket office on ticket purchase) you can wander around the trails for hours on this lovely 1,800-metre high mountain. The lush gardens are full of moss-covered rocks, orchids, Japanese Cherry trees, and many other species. The views are great if it stays clear long enough for you to take photos.Snack vendors are scattered throughout the main walking tracks and there is also a local restaurant. The climb up the cobblestone path to the top (missed this somehow and realised when it was too late) is strenuous but apparently well worth the panoramic vista.
    Along the trails you’ll see tacky weird cartoon sculptures – Vietnam seems to like strange sculptures as I have seen many scattered throughout different parks in Vietnam.
Sapa, Vietnam, market, butcher

Market butcher

Day trek to terraced rice fields in Shin Chai Village

Booked a day trek (680,000VND) to the rice fields and a couple of H’mong villages from the Tourist Office in town. The day includes an English-speaking guide, lunch, visit to the villages, and the minibus back to town (Sapa – Matra – Ta Phin – Sapa).

After heavy rains during the night, the trek’s path was very slippery; it always seems to rain here at the moment. Some of the people on the trek struggled as they slid and fell down the tracks. So, our guide decided to continue the rest of the trek by detouring and walking on the road – a little disappointing but no one wants an accident.

Although it’s winter and freezing cold here, the scenery on the 4-hour walk before lunch is stunning!

rice fields, Sapa, Vietnam

Misty rice fields on trek

Once you arrive at the Má Cha (H’Mong) village for lunch, the village touts follow you until you buy something – even whilst you’re eating lunch they constantly badger you.

The Black H’mong and Red Zhao women are very skilled and relentless at badgering but as it’s how they make their money, you can’t blame them really. After lunch, you take a short walk to the Lá Phin (Dao People) Village and walk another 2 hours to where the minibus is waiting to take you back to Sapa.

Would have loved to have done more trekking but alas, the plan was to head back to Hanoi and onto Tallin (Estonia) for a change of scenery through Eastern Europe. However, definitely want to return to explore more of this gorgeous isolated region as it is not so frequented by foreigners, yet.

Sapa, Vietnam H'mong

H’mong in the mist

Sapa, Vietnam, Red Zhao

Red Zhao villager

H'mong Infant, Sapa, Vietnam

H’mong Infant

Sapa, Vietnam, H'mong

Sugar cane for trek

 

Accommodation
Thai Binh Sapa Hotel (Ham Rong street, behind the Center Church) – A lovely and cosy hotel but our room was cold. Unfortunately, Sapa isn’t renown for its heating. The cold and wet soaks into your bones. Some accommodation in Sapa has open fire places in the reception area and some restaurants also have fires, but not everywhere.

Everything is provided in the room and the breakfasts are excellent. The fresh Vietnamese coffee at breakfast is served over a tea light candle and is wonderful! The room has good hot water, a heater, and electric blankets are provided but it was still cold. Very lovely and welcoming staff. The hotel is 1 5-minute walk to the town centre. Only stayed 5 nights in Sapa during the 2-month stay in Vietnam and wish we’d had more time but will definitely return to this stunning region.

 

 

 

 

H'mong, Sapa, Vietnam

Market day

Food

The ‘Set ‘ menu (three-course meal) for a standard price seems to be very popular with many restaurants in Sapa, with minor variations in dishes and price between restaurants.

  • Antique Sapa Restaurant (22A Phan Xi Pang Str) – This café, bar, and restaurant offers good service and delicious ‘Set’ dinner meals at the best prices and quality in town. An open fire warms up the candle-lit room making this a lovely cosy ambiance. Ate here a couple of nights but be warned, the main portions are quite large.
  • Supermarket (Ngu Chi Son) – Buy almost everything you need at Sapa’s only supermarket, especially if you’re doing a couple of days of trekking. Prices are reasonable and you can even buy local freshly baked bread and pastries here; chocolate is sold but very expensive.

Sapa to Hanoi

The Hưng Thành Travel sleeper bus (250,000VND) to Hanoi left at 08:00hrs from Sapa’s bus terminal (centre of town, near the lake) and was supposed to take around 5-6 hours. However, our bus driver thought he was the only passenger on board and made up his own rules along the way. He stopped when he wanted for a smoke, drink, or to pee behind the bus, even stopped an hour out of Hanoi for lunch! Then it seemed he gave us the scenic route around Hanoi’s back alleys and suburbs, so the trip took about 7 hours…are we there yet?

Visit my Nilla’s Photography Vietnam gallery for more images. More posts on Vietnam at Image Earth Travel.

Vietnam, Sapa

Foggy street stroll

H'mong, Vietnam, Sapa

Street seller

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Vietnam, Sapa

Village mud – always wet here!

H'mong, Vietnam, Sapa

Local market

17 thoughts on “Surreal Sapa – Northwest Vietnam

  1. Thanks for sharing superb informations. Your website is very cool. I’m impressed by the details that you’ve on this web site. It reveals how nicely you understand this subject. Bookmarked this website page, will come back for more articles. You, my friend, ROCK! I found simply the information I already searched everywhere and just could not come across. What an ideal web site.

    Like

  2. I do accept as true with all of the ideas
    you have offered in your post. They are really convincing and can definitely work.
    Still, the posts are very short for novices. May you please
    extend them a bit from subsequent time? Thank you for the post.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Thank you for your feedback! Some of my posts are long, some are short, it depends on what I wish to write at the time about a place. However, I will try and extend my posts. 🙂

      Like

    • At the end of the day, it’s all relative and I’ve been on worse. I love this region and would love to return to explore even further as 5 days there wasn’t long enough. Don’t leave it too long to visit 😉

      Liked by 1 person

  3. I was in Sapa a few years ago, though I took the overnight sleeper train which might have been a bit more comfortable than your bus journey. It was the highlight of northern Vietnam for me, eclipsing the very touristy and over-crowded experience I had of Halong Bay… great post!

    Liked by 1 person

    • Thanks and I appreciate you taking the time to comment!

      I’m sure the train would have been better and I was glad the bus there was under 6 hours – I hate being on Vietnamese roads, especially after being in a very bad bus accident a few days into Vietnam just north of Can Tho.

      I did write a post on Ha Long Bay, it may bring back some memories and yes, very touristy.

      Apart from the caving experiences in Vietnam, Sapa definitely is one of the highlights for me.

      Liked by 1 person

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