Fijian Sailing Frolics!

August, 2015

To sail and frolic around Fiji’s 332 pristine tropical islands and 522 smaller islets, invokes images of crystal-clear ocean waters, gently swaying palm trees, and for many, is but a mere pipe dream…

But to sail on a 52′ yacht owned by your very good friends from long ago, is an incredible opportunity and one not to be missed!


Sail Away, Sail Away, Sail Away…

Fully provisioned at Denarau, it was finally time to set out on the long awaited sail…

Day 1 to 3 – Musket Cove (Malolo Lailai Island)

After a 12NM sail slightly northwest of Denarau, we arrived at a gorgeous little spot, which is fairly protected – always important to have a good night’s sleep on a boat. Afternoon sea breezes usually calm down here by mid-afternoon, so a good night sleep is possible.
Musket Cove, Fiji, sailing

A tiny airstrip sees light planes come and go a couple of times a day on this small dot in the Pacific Ocean. If a light plane isn’t for you, then why not take the high speed boat from Denarau Island?

At low tide, picturesque surrounds reveal shallow and accentuated turquoise waters, which become a deeper blue the further out you go – just gorgeous.

Musket Cove, Fiji, sailing
Musket Cove from shore

After sailing on a boat, island walks to stretch your legs is a must here. So take a walk around this small island (it’s not too far) or for a good workout, try the hills.

This island also offers snorkelling, reef walking, water and wind sports.

There are many secluded beaches to get away from other tourists but be warned, this is a child-friendly island so many children grace the whole of the island – skinny dip at your own peril!

Musket Cove, Fiji, sailing
Idyllic vista – I really need to invest in a wide-angle lens to do these vistas justice!

An expensive grocery store is open on the island from 08:00-20:00hrs but if you’re prepared to pay around AUD$10 for a 200g packet of chips (crisps), then go for it. Sadly, my budget doesn’t allow for this type of extravagance.

Musket Cove, Fiji, sailing
Not so quiet anchorage…

As the wind is blowing around 30Knots today, only ventured to shore for a quick walk. This managed to end up in meeting other yachties with an invitation for Sundowners later at the bar – who needs an excuse?

Musket Cove, Fiji, sailing
The serenity

Speaking of bars, there’s a barge called Cloud 9 out on a reef a couple of miles from this anchorage. Surrounded by turquoise water, apparently, it’s a two-level floating platform with an internationally stocked bar. There’s also an Italian wood-fired pizzeria out there.

You can either dinghy to this bar or catch a boat from Musket Cove, arriving in style to buy some very expensive drinks. Cloud 9 lives out there in the sea permanently. Once you’re out there, water sports are also on offer, as is more drinking.

Long Tip:

The rule is if you visit an inhabited island, you must visit the appointed village headman (chief) first for the Sevusevu acceptance into the FIjian village. You must bring Waka (Kava: mildly narcotic drink made from mixing the powdered root of the pepper plant with water).

Once you meet the chief and he chants a little blessing of which you cannot understand of course, you’re free to anchor at the island and walk where ever you wish.

These days, you need to bring at least Waka worth USD$20 a bottle. Something to keep in mind if you’re cruising around Fiji for a while visiting many islands whilst receiving many blessings. This could become very expensive, very quickly.

Apparently, drinking Waka gives a numb sensation around the mouth, lips, and tongue; and a sense of relaxation. Waka has been a tradition on many islands for an age. I did try some, although I had no sensation of any kind, whatsoever – perhaps I didn’t drink enough?

Day 4 to 5 – Robinson Crusoe Island (Likuri Island)

RobinsonCrusoeAbout 17NM sail from Musket Cove (south of Denarau) and although a low-key resort island, you can easily circumnavigate this flat island on foot in about half an hour. Of course there’s still a bar here – there’s always a bar.

Although this island’s original name is Likuri, many of you will have only heard its recent name: Robinson Crusoe Island.

This name stems from 1651, when a sailing boat was wrecked on a nearby reef. The captain and his cat took refuge on the island. Coincidently, the cat’s name was Friday (not a good omen). And so, the story of Robinson Crusoe was born.

A sailing superstition: it is bad luck to leave port on a Friday. Nothing is mentioned about leaving port with a cat named Friday though!

Cultural show on Robinson Crusoe Island

The cultural show on Wednesday and Saturday nights (FJD$25 meal + show), is definitely worth watching.

Robinson Crusoe Island, Fiji, sailing
Cooking our dinner – the traditional way, followed by walking over those same hot coals

Not only for the mesmerising island dancing but more for the exciting fast-paced fire dancing, which is quite spectacular.

Robinson Crusoe Island, Fiji, sailing
Gorgeous dancers

It’s a treat of male and female dancers partaking in Polynesian, Tahitian, Melanesian, and other island dances. Lovely to watch and quite hypnotic.

Robinson Crusoe Island, Fiji, sailing
Flame dancing

Many Australians stay on this island but also on show nights, tourists are ferried in from Nadi or surrounding islands.

Robinson Crusoe Island, Fiji, sailing
Synchronised flame dancers
Robinson Crusoe Island, Fiji, sailing
Gorgeous smiles
Robinson Crusoe Island, Fiji, sailing
Beautiful dancers

If you feel like splashing out, check-in to the eco cultural budget resort. I’m not sure the cost but it’s supposed to be pretty good.

Robinson Crusoe Island, Fiji, sailing, water jet pack
The finale! Apparently the first time in the world a water jet pack has been tried with flames!
sailing, Fiji
Tehani-li underway

Day 6 to 8 Back to Denarau

Small rolling seas whilst sailing the 22NM back from Robinson Crusoe to Denarau, although a light breeze made the sail very pleasant.

Not anchored even 10 minutes outside of the marina, we hear a Pan Pan call from a yacht, which is sitting on a reef.

Not a good place to be, especially with a falling tide.

After small dinghies tried to help without luck and no power boats offering to help (marina is full with them), we decided to weigh anchor. Motored out to see if we could pull the boat off the reef.

Almost got there when we saw a tinny (small aluminium boat for non-Australian readers) manage to drag the boat off the reef.

Not very comforting to know that if you are out there in the same situation, larger boats wouldn’t come to your rescue. Not the rule of the sea either.

Day 9 – Rurago Bay (Waya Island)

Fiji, sailing, Yasawa
Sailing the Yasawa Group

After the stopover at Denarau for more supplies, set sail again for an easy 35NM sail in a westerly direction and bound for Rurogo Bay, Wayasewa (Waya) Island.

This island is part of the Yasawa Group archipelago and our playground for the next 5 days.

Lovely light breezes and at last, the sun decided to come out and play!

Six main islands and numerous smaller islets form the Yasawa group, which is volcanic in origin and very mountainous. With peaks ranging from 250 to 600 meters high, there are some majestic vistas and backdrops when sailing past.

This is the island that we have to bare gifts of Waka and be blessed by the chief. Taking tea and cake with the locals in the village is very lovely.

Waya Island, Fiji, sailing
Beautiful bay
Waya Island, Fiji, sailing
S/V Domino

Gorgeous walks on this island.

Waya Island, Fiji, sailing
Karel taking the lead – walk to the other side of the island
Waya Island, Fiji, sailing
Octopus Resort – Likuliku Bay

Take a long stroll right across the other side for more spectacular views.

Waya Island, Fiji, sailing
Resort life – Likuliku Bay
Waya Island, Fiji, sailing
Cute locals

Day 10 – Blue Lagoon (Nanuya Sewa Island)

Another lovely morning sail of about 25NM from Rurago Bay to the gorgeous and famous Blue Lagoon.

Rurugo Bay, Blue lagoon, Fiji, sailing
Fijian blues

Most of the islands in Fiji boast a resort of some sort on almost every beach with activities, spas, and much more.

Rurugo Bay, Blue lagoon, Fiji, sailing
Paradise – I can get used to this!

The Nanuya Resort is quite small and runs on solar power, I believe – definitely a good thing.

Blue lagoon, Fiji, sailing
Construction site with a view

What I didn’t think looked that great was the fake grass along the bar/restaurant and running along the waterfront pathways to the resort – a tad tacky.

Blue lagoon, Fiji, sailing
Blue Lagoon

Day 12 – Natuvalo Bay (Navitis Island)

A 15NM sail from the Blue Lagoon sees us anchored in beautiful Natuvalo Bay. Although the wind abated, it is still overcast and quite chilly.

Only an overnight stay here as suddenly, time is chugging away and I don’t have many days left.

Day 13 – Kanu Passage (Naviti Island)

A short lovely 5NM sail to the passage between Barefoot Manta Island and Naviti Island for a snorkel in the afternoon with Manta Rays, sees us anchoring in Drawaqa for a couple of hours.

The Rays are very famous here and religiously arrive to feed between May to October, on the plankton-rich waters in this channel – about 2 hours after high tide.

We don our wetsuits and take the dinghy to the spot, which is easy to find as there are already a few dinghies dotting the surface with snorkellers in the water.

Excited, I jumped in and tried to swim to the Manta Rays – impossible against the strong current.

Deciding to motor upstream of the Rays and jumping back in, it isn’t long before both rays gracefully glide by – incredible!

Both came very close and are not scared at all. I’ve seen larger black Rays in Australia’s Whitsunday’s although today’s are much smaller and of a greyish colour. Still, very beautiful and majestic – so humbling to be so close to these wild creatures and very memorable.

After the snorkelling, we zipped back to Tehani-li. Skipper and crew had to free up the anchor as it became tangled in reef.

Motor-sailed the 10NM to Yalobi Bay (Wayasewa Island) and anchored for the night. A gorgeous quiet bay and anchorage with a local village on shore. A quick walk to stretch the legs before dinner, drinks, and settling in for the evening.

Yalobi Bay, Fiji, sailing
Shrouded Yalobi Bay

Day 14 – Denarau again

As I fly back to Australia for the return UK journey tomorrow, we set sail for the 30NM back from Tokato to Denarau in a light breeze and shrouded overcast day.

The sea is quite flat so not a bumpy ride at all and quite a lovely sail for my last day out.

Blue lagoon, Fiji, sailing
Our salty skipper with friendly locals

Leaving Fiji

Sadly, it is finally time to say a heartfelt goodbye to my good friends and the gorgeous Tehani-li – their home for about ten years now.

Had such a great time catching up and the hospitality is always wonderful. I nick-named Tehani-li the Boatel as she sees a constant stream of visitors from around the world staying onboard.

After a last quick coffee and Sushi lunch at Lulu’s, caught the local bus into Nadi.

Buses here provide a great service, usually running on time and cheap. A few Fijian dollars will get you a bus from the town centre to the airport.

Nadi Airport

The Duty Free shopping at Nadi’s airport is expensive and limited, which may be a result of the current renovations.

Finally, the Virgin plane took off, not too late and now on my way to the UK via Australia.

A very long trip ahead of about 37-hours door-to-door. Hopefully, this trip won’t be as bad as the Cathay Pacific journey of 52+ hours door-to-door!

Looking forward to the new travel chapter and adventure around Europe in Reg (motorhome) for a while – I hope.

Visit my Nilla’s Photography Galleries for more images. More Fiji travel posts at Image Earth Travel.

If you’re also interested in reading more sailing stories, check out my Caribbean posts.

Robinson Crusoe Island, Fiji, sailing
Island faces
Fiji, sailing, sunset
Blue Lagoon – gotta get a sunset shot in!

26 thoughts on “Fijian Sailing Frolics!

Add yours

  1. How lovely to see you aboard Tehani-Li in Fiji! I was sailing these same waters in 2015 but missed you by 1 month. I met Karel and Phil in Fiji for the first time in September 2015 and have enjoyed their wonderful company in many an anchorage since.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Ha, ha probably is as it’s not as cold. The last time I was in Scotland was in 1985! Solo backpacking and hitching in the northern part en-route to the Orkney Isles.


  2. It is appropriate time to make some plans for the future and
    it’s time to be happy. I’ve read this post and if I could I desire to suggest you
    some interesting things or advice. Maybe you can write next articles referring to this article.
    I wish to read even more things about it!

    Liked by 1 person

  3. What beautiful pictures everywhere on your site, so inspiring! Wow, you’re so productive; what a marvelous life you have! It’s so nice to be a part of it, while visiting here – and thanks for the likes 🙂 Xxx

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Many thanks for your kind words and glad you enjoyed my site!
      I don’t feel productive. I’m about 9 months behind with posts. I find it hard posting when I’m still on the road.
      Your site is lovely and your artwork beautiful! 🙂 x


  4. I need to bookmark this page as I would love to go back to Fiji one day. The island hopping looks lovely. I drank waku ( kava) once – revolting stuff- the small amount I tasted made my tongue go numb.
    The photos make you realise how many different blues there are in the sea and sky. Louise

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Excellent! So many islands to explore and sadly, so little time.

      Yes, the Kava is revolting stuff. It’s not particularly appealing when they wash it through a grubby looking cloth in a big bowl before serving it up to you…I’m sure the cloth is clean.

      The blues are amazing but not unlike the Great Barrier Reef and islands scattered throughout this reef! Many thanks for your comment.

      Liked by 1 person

  5. A very enjoyable read with lots of interesting facts if you were thinking of visiting and lovely photography. Would love to visit this beautiful island one day!

    Liked by 2 people

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