Bus lag and flat arse! Rio Gallegos to Ushuaia by bus and ferry

April, 2011

I’ve coined a new term: Bus Lag! This is how I am feeling on hopefully the last bus journey for a while, which is from Rio Gallegos to Argentina’s Ushuaia.

If there is such a condition, whether amongst travellers or a medical term known as bus lag, then please let me know as I’d love to hear all about your bus experiences.

Not only am I feeling the pain in my butt but also a fuzziness in my brain, and there is still another 12-hour trip ahead until we reach Ushuaia. I almost expect to see and feel pressure sores or callouses forming from the endless hours of sitting on busses, during the last several days over some 3,000-plus kilometres…

Travel

As the hotel in Rio Gallegos would not indulge us in an earlier than 8 am breakfast (although breakfast is included in the room’s price), we buy a coffee and croissant upstairs at the bus station’s restaurant. This quick snack is surprisingly cheap and very tasty. I always find it’s hit and miss with food at bus or train stations. Today, we are lucky.

The Marga bus company proves efficient although it is as if the 2 drivers are on a mission to make the fastest time to Ushuaia, with barely any stops, apart from the obligatory border crossings and ferry stop.

We make the journey in 11 hours, which is an hour early, even with the ferry crossing but with sore butts and very hungry!

Strait of Magellan

There’s something magical about crossing the Strait of Magellan – a topic covered in my early school classes.

The fact that this Strait was first navigated by the Portuguese explorer Magellan in 1520 with an expeditionary fleet of 5 ships, holds enough mystique for any blasé traveller. I have to admit, I am pretty excited to be crossing this historical passage, even though it is on a car ferry and not on Magellan’s Victoria – the 16th-century Carrack (sailing ship)!

Due to the passage’s narrowness but also unpredictable winds and currents, this stretch of water is considered to be difficult to navigate.

Continuing on the bus trip

A couple of films are shown on this bus journey and a small packaged snack is also provided. I suggest you bring your own food or snacks, especially as stops are rare and I did notice locals doing the same.

During this bus trip, you cross from Argentina into Chile for a few hours, before crossing back into Argentina. The Chilean roads are gravel and much worse than in Argentina.

Most of the scenery is barren, flat, scrubby, and treeless but still unfolds a certain rugged beauty that’s been consistent with the past couple of bus journeys. Although, the vistas do become breath-taking from Tulhuin onwards, which is about 1.5-hours north of Ushuaia.

Descending into Ushuaia is pretty special as it’s such a beautiful and picturesque city.

Freshly snow-capped glaciers and narrow winding roads became an integral part of the journey nearing Ushuaia, which also provides something to look at, whilst swerving around bends.

If you suffer from car or motion sickness, then I suggest maybe taking something prior to the trip, which is a good idea.

As there isn’t a bus station in Ushuaia, everyone is dropped off in the middle of the city near a fuel station – this we didn’t know. It pays to ask when buying a ticket and not to assume that all buses start and finish at a bus station. Although it isn’t too hard catching a cab as there are several waiting for the bus to arrive, so this must be the ‘norm’ in Ushuaia.

Sights

As Ushuaia and its stunning surrounds hold so much to see and a plethora of activities, I’ve written a separate post. And hiring a car for 3 days whilst using the apartment in Ushuaia as a base, proves to be a great idea as we explore national parks and Ushuaia’s surrounds.

Accommodation

Cabañas Candelas de Ushuaia (AR$230 Double)

Catching a taxi ($AR15) from the city bus stop and arriving at our accommodation, proves to be a pleasant surprise awaiting us on our arrival…

Don’t be deceived by the name “Cabañas” (Cabins) as the accommodation is not really a cabin but an amazing 2-storey apartment with central heating in every room, even in the downstairs 2nd toilet. You definitely need central heating this far south in the globe.

A fully-equipped kitchenette awaits the most eager of chefs but also a comfortable downstairs living area with an extra bed.

Francisco the Manager, is very accommodating and friendly, with contacts all over town.

Freshly-baked bread is delivered on a tray filled with ground coffee, Argentinian condiments, milk, and lovely morsels, by the very kind Francisco each evening, for the next day’s breakfast.

This new abode is extremely homely and comfy with loads of soap, towels, and privacy – and an easy walk for supplies to a supermarket. I can certainly get used to this level of comfort and stay here for a very long time.

This is the best accommodation yet in Argentina and I highly recommend you stay here when in Ushuaia.

The apartment is only 3 kilometres from San Martin commercial avenue or a 20-minute (AR$2.40) bus ride, which you can catch from the block next to the apartment. The long walk will definitely warm you up especially during such cold snowy days.

Unfortunately, we only pre-booked 4 nights here and as it is the Easter weekend, Francisco’s accommodation is fully booked, so reluctantly, we have to find accommodation elsewhere and move. I get settled very quickly in any new place and everywhere is like a home to me.

Aijpel B&B (AR$260 Double + ensuite)

Our new home for 3 nights only is about 600 metres from San Martin commercial avenue or about 1.5 kilometres from the town centre.

The homely accommodation is very clean and the breakfast is wonderful. Although coming from our own apartment, we are now spoilt and longed for our privacy once more.

Following Easter, we check back into the Cabañas Candelas de Ushuaia. Wanting to return to this place for another 3 nights as very impressed with this abode and Francisco’s accommodating Ushuaian friendliness – he’s so very helpful.

Dog Update

You’ve heard the saying “Every man and his dog”?

Well this stands true in Ushuaia as it seems that every man does indeed own a dog or two and they all do indeed bark (loudly)!

Actually, it is in Ushuaia that we first noticed dogs following us, everywhere. This is the first of my dog update in South America. I’ll keep you updated with my ongoing dog sagas…

Leaving Ushuaia for Puerto Natales, Chile

Although we missed the boat to Antarctica due to worsening weather and an early cut-off to the season, had a wonderful time waiting a while in Ushuaia, but still decided to push ahead.

The next destination is another long bus journey to Puerto Natales, Chile, which is to be the start of a 4-day journey through the Southern Patagonian Fjords. This town is where we hop on the Navimag Ferry for the next adventure. I’m really going to miss spectacular Ushuaia as there’s so much to do and explore here – a stunning part of the world.

The bus trip (AR$240) from Ushuaia is supposed to take about 15 hours on the Cootra bus company, across the Argentinian border and into Chile. The bus company advises that the trip also includes about a 3-hour wait and bus change in Punta Arenas.

We all know what can happen on these longer bus trips in South America when timetables go out the window, just as it did from Puerto Madryn to Rio Gallegos. What could possibly go wrong this time?

Visit Nilla’s Photography for more images. More posts on Argentina at Image Earth Travel.