Food and frivolity around Cosenza, Calabria: Part 2

April-June, 2017

Always so much food and frivolity around Cosenza in Southern Italy’s Calabria region, especially renown for its scrumptious food and wine!

And who better to indulge than me? My ever-expanding waistline is a testament to the amazing food in this region, so if you visit, beware…

Cosenza, Calabria, ItalyThere always seems to be something happening in Cosenza. And so, this post is Part 2 and carries on from: Food and frivolity around Cosenza, Calabria

The only issue in Cosenza is that unless you somehow know that an event is on, you can easily miss the frivolity, as nothing or very little seems to be advertised. Everything seems to be dispersed via the verbal Jungle Wire.

International Women’s Day (Festa della Donna)

Wandering around Cosenza, I noticed many small plastic tables and larger stalls filled with gorgeous yellow-coloured flowers.

Apparently this is the flower that’s symbolic for International Women’s Day in Italy, but I’m not sure if the rest of Europe shares the same flower?

Lovely to see the the city dotted with pretty splashes of yellow fluffy Mimosa bouquets, delicately perfumed and wonderful to receive either from a relative, friend, or colleague as a gift.

Mimosa, Women's Day, Cosenza, Calabria, Italy
Mimosa

Fiera di San Giuseppe (Saint Joseph’s Fair)

Stumbled upon this fair, which is held each year along Viale Giacomo Mancini around the 15-19th March.

St Joseph's fair, Cosenza, Calabria, Italy
Fair’s entrance

Hundreds of food stalls, road blocks, many police standing around looking fashionable, locals, and loads of visitors stretch over two kilometres.

St Joseph's fair, Cosenza, Calabria, Italy
Food glorious food!

With roots dating back to 1234 and established by Frederick II of Swabia, this is one of Cosenza’s oldest and most important traditions.

St Joseph's Fair, Cosenza, Calabria, Italy
Decadent cheese

Many artisanal products are on sale, endless variety of cakes and nuts, freshly baked bread, cheese, home-made plump sausage, Salami, clothes, shoes, and just about everything you can imagine, including amusement rides for children.

Ape, fair, Cosenza, Calabria, Italy
The Ape – another name for these 3-wheelers
bread, fair, Cosenza, Calabria, Italy
Mmm…fresh bread
St Joseph's fair, Cosenza, Calabria, Italy
Pizza galore
St Joseph's fair, Cosenza, Calabria, Italy
Roasted

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Live music is also on offer but I haven’t heard any yet. No doubt I will as our apartment is only down the road from the fair.

Typically, “Le Zeppole di San Giuseppe” is a popular and delicious pastry popular in Sicily and Naples during this fair, but is also abundant everywhere throughout Cosenza. The Medieval Arabic origins of zalābiyya meaning fried soft dough is still popular in Egypt today. Simply delicious and light!

Zeppole, Women's Day, Cosenza, Calabria, Italy
Heavenly Zeppole

St Patrick’s Day at the Bulldog Pub

Of course St Patrick’s Day is celebrated around the world but not so much in Cosenza.

The 17th March does see some Cosentini make an effort with the colour green splashed around and some Bars pay tribute to this day with decorations.

At €15 for 2 imported beers (600 ml), you’re not going to get drunk at the Bulldog Pub easily, unless of course, you are super rich. Still, it’s a great atmosphere, lovely cosy surrounds, staff are great, and the Guinness is real.

RiartEco 2017 – Villa Rendano

Invited to this unique exhibition on Via Triglio, 21, decided to take up the offer.

Apart from the two floors of excellent exhibits, this gorgeous building dating back to 1871 (relatively young for Cosenza) in front of the Old Town is worth a visit.

Villa Rendano, Women's Day, Cosenza, Calabria, Italy
Aged opulence

The villa’s walls and ceilings are intricately plastered and internal walls adorned with detailed painted artworks.

Villa Rendano, Women's Day, Cosenza, Calabria, Italy
Intricate ceiling

A beautiful view of Cosenza awaits, from the top of the building.

Villa Rendano, Women's Day, Cosenza, Calabria, Italy
View to the Old Town and castle
Italian coolness

An innovative exhibition as everything including sculptures are made from recycled components. A nifty concept and amazing what students and artists invented for the exhibition.

Villa Rendano, Women's Day, Cosenza, Calabria, Italy
Evening gown made from car sun shades
exhibition, Women's Day, Cosenza, Calabria, Italy
Tin and paint
Villa Rendano, Women's Day, Cosenza, Calabria, Italy
Coloured exhibition

Birthday indulgence

Thought I would indulge and write a little section on my birthday in Cosenza…hope you don’t mind?

A decadent sleep-in followed by a wonderful Espresso made by my personal Barista is always a must. A mosey on down in this warm sunny day to the favourite Bar for more coffee, savouries, and delicious freshly-baked pastries. The secret is out (through no fault of mine) and the lovely staff at Matteotti’s added a candle to my pastry, then sang Happy Birthday in Italian. So very sweet.

The evening stroll for dinner took us across the ancient bridge over the Crathis River and on to the Old Town.

Old Town, Cosenza, Calabria, Italy
Old Town history

Birthday dinner – A Cantina Cosenza (Corso Plebiscito, 4/8)

Always the first at a restaurant as still not used to the Italian late dinner hour – tonight isn’t any different.

Expect to see exposed stoned in this 14th-century building with massive timber low-lying ceiling rafters – very cosy.

A very popular restaurant, which usually sees tables and a BBQ spill out on to the opposite footpath during summer months. You must book in summer, otherwise, you won’t get in. Without a booking tonight, we are still the first ones in as it’s early and so, shown to a small table for 2 next to the ancient wall.

A bowl of homemade Chilli paste awaits, on every table. The fumes accosting one’s nostrils. A basket of freshly-baked bread arrives with the very efficient and friendly purple-haired waitress.

Reeling off a string of dishes of which only half I recognised and with the advice that the Antipasto is ‘quite large’ (in Italian, read huge), ordered only an Antipasto each and one Secondo to share, and of course, wine.

I wasn’t prepared for just how much food arrived.

Many Cosentini we’ve met mentioned commented that “you eat very well at this restaurant”, which I understood as the food is really good.

Apart from a selection of traditional cheese and Prosciutto, small delicate morsels of deliciousness kept arriving. Sauteed Zucchini, caramelised onions, red kidney bean and Tropea onion salad, oven-baked crispy savouries, and just too many others to mention.

Noticing we were struggling, the kind waitress advised we could cancel our Secondo. Deciding to plough ahead but wait some time for the Secondo to arrive.

Lucky we are sharing. Juicy and tender veal roll wrapped around a melting filling of some sort, just not sure what, accompanied with garlic onion sliced potatoes, baked to perfection. Barely able to move after this feast, the waitress cheekily asked whether we would like a little dessert!

All of this feast for the bargain basement price of €15/head. Wonderful ambience, service, and amazing food – I highly recommend this restaurant.

El Mojito alma Cubana

Following my birthday feast, we decided to meet friends at the Mary Jane Pub in the Old Town, but it is so packed tonight that we can’t get in for another 20 minutes. Decided to venture next door to the El Mojito alma Cubana (Piazza dei Valdesi 4/5).

From the moment you walk into this darkish and small restaurant dotted with chequered cloth tables, till climbing the narrow old stairs, and up to “Hemingway’s Room”, an ambience of dim-lit mystery awaits.

This room boasts a small cosy bar with a plethora of alcoholic bottles from around the world. Filled with smoky haze, comfortable lounges with low tables, greets the thirsty patron. Depending on what you order, drinks can be pricy (Rum Cocktails €6.50+, beers €5+) but the barman is great!

The food is supposed to be good at the restaurant downstairs, which offers Cuban, Spanish, and Argentinian cuisines, whilst listening to live music.

The Palco

As the night is still young, ventured on down to The Palco for a few drinks and some free live music. Always a great stop-over with a great atmosphere; packed out as usual. Excellent birthday all round.


More food in Cosenza

Just when I think I’ve tried almost every Bar or restaurant in Cosenza, more crop up. The options are never-ending, as of course, Italians love their food.

Kennedy Cafè

You must try the Aperitivo at this Cafè (via Kennedy 9/10) as you won’t be disappointed. The only drawback is that there’s a 10% surcharge (small print at the bottom of the menu), which isn’t typical in Cosenza.

The excellent €5 Aperi Pranzo (lunchtime) is more than enough for one person and really, two people can share just the one.

pranzo, Cosenza, Calabria, Italy
The more expensive Aperi Paranzo

The delicious €9 Aperi Cena (evening) is served with many more delicious small dishes and a drink of your choice. Be warned, if you order either one, you may suffer from a Carb overdose as the café is not stingy with their offering.

Aperi cena, Cosenza, Calabria, Italy
Aperi Cena – no room for dinner plates!

The waiter first brings out plump juicy olives, crisps, and toasted nuts to accompany your Campari Spritzer with a slice of orange (or other choice of beverage). A stream of goodness in little dishes with all sorts of delights follow: pasta shells, spinach slice, fish frittata, many different savouries in puff pastry, and too many more to list – very scrummy and so very filling.

Aperi Cena, Cosenza, Calabria, Italy
Another evening’s Aperi Cena

A lovely way to pass the time away, in true Italian fashion!

Port Ellen

Off Corso Mazzini and down Piazza XI Settembre, 150, this chic restaurant serves excellent gourmet Pizza (€6+), good bottles of wine (€12+), desserts, and meals in a slightly rowdy environment, with excellent service.


Shops galore

Cosenza hosts a plethora of shops and then some, especially along the pedestrian precinct Corso Mazzini…it appears that Cosentinis love to shop.

Everyone looks gorgeous sporting the latest fashions and hair styles just as a Milan Catwalk, on the obligatory evening passeggiata (stroll or leisurely walk).

I have to say, I am becoming quite accustomed to the evening passeggiata, especially in the summer and after dinner – very civilised.

Cosenza, Calabria, italy
Via Montesanto – parallel to Corso Mazzini with more expensive shops

Sensation Profumerie

This is one of my favourite shops for items but also the excellent service.

On Via Isonzo 41 and as the name suggests, loads of great-priced perfume, make-up, and skin care products for men and women in this store. Staff here are very sweet and chatty; and will order almost anything in for you, if they can.

Each time friends or family stay, we visit this shop as there’s always a bargain to be had.


I’ve written a Part 3 on Food and Frivolity as there is still so much to experience and eat in this city!

Visit Nilla’s Photography for more images. More posts on Italy at Image Earth Travel.

A couple more food shots to entice you…

pasta, Cosenza, Calabria, Italy
My pasta creation
zucchini, Cosenza, Calabria, Italy
My friend’s delicious Zucchini fritters, authentic Calabrese style
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32 thoughts on “Food and frivolity around Cosenza, Calabria: Part 2

Add yours

  1. Three weeks ago, I was at a birthday party of one of my neighbors and they were grilling a whole pig. I love meat, but still can’t get used to seeing those cooked like that, brrrrrr.
    Great travel report again, dear Nilla. XxX

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Well, maybe things like infrastructure…but some things haven’t change a lot. Like the speed of internet, still very bureaucratic…per example 😉 But I have to also add, to people from The Netherlands they are very kind 🙂

      Liked by 1 person

  2. Happy Birthday Nilla! It sounds like you had a wonderful time. A Cantina Cosenza sounds amazing. In fact all of Cosenza is appealing, love the small lanes. That food! I am considering a move to a new country and Italy is one of them, I will definitely put on weight with what’s on offer there!! 🙂 Have a fab weekend. I love reading your posts and look forward to the next one xx

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Hi Gill, thank you!
      My birthday was back in April as this post is a culmination of many months here…and yes, it was a fantastic time with food, fun, and good friends. 🙂
      I really enjoy living here, it’s just the bureaucracy that can be stifling at times, but coming from Thailand, you know how this works. Love reading your posts on Thailand also and makes me want to visit again.
      Have a great weekend! x

      Liked by 1 person

    2. Such a shame that the bureaucracy holds back such wonderful countries.

      You do sound as if you’ve exhausted Thailand and it is time to move on…southern Italy is great but again, the bureaucracy is stifling. Maybe visit first for a bit before you make your decision. 😉 x

      Liked by 1 person

    1. Ha, ha thank you Suze. This post was twice the size, but I decided to split it and publish Part 3 next Sunday.

      Yeah well, Italy has a habit of doing that to you – it’s lethal here if you’re trying to maintain your weight! So much wonderful food around.

      Liked by 1 person

    2. That was a good idea to break it up, it would’ve been too long. They do say most readers now are more focused on shorter stories? Who knows, I think just doing what works for each of us eh! Yes, maintaining weight is always an issue for us, thank goodness for dog walking it helps with the motivation!

      Liked by 1 person

    3. Thanks for the feedback and I’ll keep that in mind. My posts seems to be getting longer and longer with so much to write, and so many photos to share.

      I never used to have this problem as my posts were too short (by SEO standards). Having stripped out ‘fluff’ (as I call it) from documents for most of my professional life as a Technical Writer, then the transition to creative writer was a little difficult. Think I must be getting the hang of it! 😉

      I have one of those bands for my wrist that is a step counter come everything and try to do the 10,000 steps each day and some yoga, but it’s still not working. I had joined a gym but as there closed more often than open (almost) here, then it isn’t worth the money.

      Liked by 1 person

    4. Probably not, it’s time-consuming. I’m at the stage where I’m thinking about displaying ads on my site to make some passive income, but not sure. Will give it more thought as I find ads distracting but they do provide more exposure.

      Liked by 1 person

    5. I also love blogging and sharing experiences, so, spend a lot of time writing posts.
      My blog is a couple of years’ old now and does cost me a yearly fee to run with WordPress. If I can cover my costs with passive advertising, then that would be enough. 🙂

      Liked by 1 person

    6. I think that’s a nice size and quick to read. My thoughts are if you don’t have any more to say, then it’s no point waffling on about a subject, regardless of SEO. I believe that content for readers is more important. 😉

      Liked by 1 person

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