March, 2011
Ever wondered why the captivating city of Chefchaouen perched high in the north-western edge of Morocco’s spectacular Rif Mountains, has earned the Blue City label?
This fantastic destination is a must whilst in Morocco. You would be mad to miss Chefchaouen, not only to learn whether this enigma is in fact correct, but to cast your eyes on this incredibly charming and unusually-hued city.
Come in, enter these dazzling surrounds, and envelop yourself in this unique experience saturated in lapis lazuli and turquoise, which can easily be an unbelievable fictitious set in a movie’s scene…

Getting to Chefchaouen
If travelling to Chefchaouen from Tangier, then it is about a two-hour bus trip through the stunning Rif Mountains.
You can either buy your bus ticket online from CTM the day before, or take a local bus from the Gare Routiere bus station, about five kilometres from the city centre. A private taxi or public Grand Taxi also does the journey.
The public bus is quite rundown and the slightly erratic driver thinks he is driving an Italian sports car, whilst swerving around steep bends. Not always the best situation when travelling along extremely mountainous roads, but we arrive unscathed, albeit with nerves slightly fractured.
After surviving the hairy ride through the mountains with your crazy Moroccan driver, you are dropped of at the outskirts of Chefchaouen to start the walk up the steepish hill.
The ‘Blue’ Theory
Also nicknamed The Blue Pearl, if you are wondering why this is the only city in Morocco, which is painted as such, then there are several theories to contemplate. Some of which include that the blue deters mosquitoes, the colour is soothing, blue reminds people of water’s coolness, or Chefchaouen is painted blue to attract tourists. The reasons are many, but one that may be correct has to do with history.
The city’s inception to blue began centuries ago in 1492 during the Spanish inquisition of which the Sephardi Jews were escaping, and also transferred their tradition of red-roof tiling and white-washing walls. With more Jews escaping Europe during the 1930s, this new influx to Chefchaouen brought the tradition of blue-washed walls and interiors. The transition to blue is reminiscent of the sky and so, their God and for the Jews, a sacred colour.
A millennium later, the tradition continues with the re-painting of buildings yearly by the Muslim Berber residents to retain the mesmerising and hypnotic blue vibrancy.


Chefchaouen
Although founded in 1471 as a small Kasbah, Chefchaouen has endured many invasions. The city was closed to outsiders until the 1920s, which is when Spain seized Chefchaouen, and was finally returned to Morocco in 1956.
You could be forgiven for landing here with mouth wide open and jaw dropped. Yes, it really is that sublime.

With each bend you turn or arch under which you traverse, a vivid shade of blue unfolds itself amongst Andalusian traditional architecture in a dreamlike canvas.

Light, dark, deep, watery, pale shades of cobalt and sky blues against ochre-coloured roof tiles, proves both calming and soothing to the eyes. Perhaps this is the reason that locals seem so relaxed in Chefchaouen, whilst stopping for their favourite pastime of a steaming sugary black tea, stuffed with clumps of fresh mint.

The sky and time of day also affects Chefchaouen’s blue hues.
With the onset of an evening’s light, colours deepen to accentuate a dramatic and altered indigo spectrum. Sporadic royal blues dance around the worn stone buildings, just like a Marionette puppet forced by its puppeteer’s hand.

The region around Chefchaouen is one of Morocco’s main producers of Kif (cannabis) of which backpackers have known for an age. And tours are available to the growing fields, if you so wish.
Spanish Mosque
Overlooking Chefchaouen from a solitary hill, you can reach this mosque during a pleasant forty-five-minute walk (one-way) from the medina.
Start the walk from the medina’s eastern gate Bab al Ansar, until you reach the Ras el’Ma river. A pretty spot where the chatter of local Riffian women rises up out of the communal stone laundry area, where many clothes are still washed the old-fashioned way, by hand in the river.

Women and children wallow the day away whilst guarding their newly scrubbed laundry on makeshift lines until dried, until ready to venture home once more.

Passing agave cacti, tuffs of scrubby bush and prickly pear, the trail leads to the mosque ruin.
The Spanish built this mosque for the local population although unpopular, the mosque fell into disrepair and is abandoned.
Even the sky here seems as it has been impossibly blue-rinsed to match the city below.

Along this morning trail you bump into elderly locals from the villages higher up the hill.
Tending their herd with a gentle prod from crooked branches or trying to coax a stray goat from a bush high above, this narrow dusty trail witnesses’ numerous occurrence of Riffian daily life – probably unchanged for centuries.
Souk Shopping
Need a few souvenirs to take home to loved ones or just to spoil yourself?
The Souk is the place to venture to, which sells everything from brightly coloured locally handmade rugs, warm woolly hats, peaked coloured spices, brightly-coloured fragrant oils, and just about anything else Moroccan you desire.

Quieter than the commotion and frantic bartering surrounding souks in Marrakech, Fes, or even Meknès, this smaller and more reserved shopping precinct is a much more enjoyable experience.

Colours at night light up every corner of the city to project ethereal tones that bounce off the evening’s blue-rinsed stone walls – a postcard around every corner.


Accommodation
With a plethora of available accommodation ranging from expensive hotels to inexpensive guest houses offered in Chefchaouen, I prefer the smaller Riads and family-run guest houses. Apart from the excellent service from owners, this type of accommodation is much more personal with a local feel.
Stay in a 600-hundred-year-old gorgeous stone room, surrounded by soul, if you so wish. Shop around as there are great deals to snap up on booking.com and airbnb.com.

Leaving Chefchaouen
I could easily spend more time in Chefchaouen as several nights is just not enough.

Such a relaxed atmosphere that this appealing city exudes, but alas, it is time to move on again. This time to the non-typical tourist destination of Ceuta – a Spanish autonomous city.
Have you heard of Ceuta, the city that covers just over eighteen-square-kilometres in northern Africa?
Visit Nilla’s Photography for more global images. More posts on Morocco.

Yeah I’d been here. The blue doors are amazing.
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It’s a favourite Moroccan city – just gorgeous.
Have you seen how they paint building throughout Morocco? They paint over mud and dust, and never clean the area before painting. Made my eyes bleed!
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Haha. That’s called efficiency. I suspect they do the same in India. I seem to remember a couple of Steve McCurry photos…
(They do that here too…)
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Yeah, but what a waste of time and materials – I suspect labour is cheap there…
Really like Steve McCurry’s work, but he’s taken to over-processing his wonderful work, which tends to look a little fake. His work doesn’t need much fiddling with at all.
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Agree totally. On the overprocessing (I suspect there might be a young and overzealous assistant’s hand there) and he doesn’t need it… I saw a large signed print of his in a gallery in Paris a few years back. 8,000 Euros. (Seriously?)
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I thought the same, he’s probably like Peter Lik that has a swag of people doing his lacky work.
Expensive or too cheap?
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Had to look Peter Lik up. Didn’t know him… (Oops).
8,000 Euros for a picture I felt too expensive. Median income in France is 1600 Euros. I mean seriously. Too expensive. 😬 Now, since Lik sold one for 8 millions, it is cheap. 🤣
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Apparently, an undisclosed collector purchased one of his photos a while back for $1M, but just noticed in 2014, he sold a photo for $6.5M. There’s a lot of controversy surrounding these purchases as art dealers are saying they’re a scam. But who knows in the world of art. Maybe the first one could have been a scam but if he’s sold more since, then people are willing to pay that money for his work. I’ve seen an interview with him, and he comes across as arrogant and conceited.
$8M or euros? Well, it depends on the medium, why should a photo command less money than a painting? As long as it’s a Limited Edition and only one is ever sold, then it’s still a piece of art and worth what someone is willing to pay for that art. 😉 Does the market dictate the price of the art dealers? I don’t know much about high end art! 🤣
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Oh, I agree. A limited signed edition could command a lot of money… But still, I sometimes wonder about the million dollars a Van Gogh or a Modigliani now gets when most artists died in misery…
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I think that in Lik’s case, he’s a great salesman and targets his audience with his art perfectly. He totally understands what sells and tailors his art around the $$$s. There’s a reason he’s based in the US although he’s an Australian. Don’t get me wrong, I like some of his work, but I’m not sure how much of it has been massaged during PP or what is ‘real’.
So true and the people they left behind reap the artist’s hard-earned (through misery) rewards.
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Some people are very good salesmen. Whatever they sell. And I agree: I try not to use “effects”. Just framing, a bit of light adjustment and cleaning up details that’s it. Most times it’s framing and light.
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Exactly and I’m not one of those people – not a salesperson.
I use PP on scanned negs as there’s a lot of dust because my negs are old. I also straighten horizons as I have Astigmatism and always take slanted horizons. I’ve learned to enable the grid on my DSLR but still manage to stuff it up! I do a bit of lightening and contrast, but as I said, I find PP tedious.
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To each his/her own.
We do basically the same. I too straighten horizons… 😉 LOL.
I’ve been using it for so long, I also use Commands, you know: Command I, etc. that makes it very fast
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Very true. Think we’ve discussed before, it’s when an artist has done so much PP that it then becomes digital art, but is still passed off as photography – two very separate mediums. Or, am I being old school? 😉
I’m not that great with Commands but know they’re there…should use more to speed things up really.
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Old or new school? Does it matter? Both are representations. But I too believe they’re separate mediums. One example: when the “motion pictures” came out, they were basically filming theatre. Because that’s what they knew. Now, movies and theatre are two different mediums…
Command? I’ve been using that for years, since Windows… Much faster than the mouse.
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No, not really, especially in the grand scheme of life!
Good point about motion pictures vs. movies – hadn’t given that much thought.
Yeah, I use some Commands but not enough, and agree that they’re much faster than a mouse.
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My secretary taught me a long while. She was extremely fast on a keyboard…
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Ah, that makes sense. 😉
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I trained her she trained me… LOL.
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Ha, ha, that’s what work is all about – the transfer of knowledge and helping each other. People that don’t transfer knowledge to a colleague and feel that information is powerful are not constructive. I’ve worked with a lot of those folk.
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There are many. But you’re right, I hadn’t thought of it as “transfer”, even though it’s what I did. Thanks for the word.
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Always happy to help!
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😀
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Wonderful photos and story of your travels.
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Thank you Bonnie for your kind feedback and happy that you enjoyed this post.
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Reblogged this on MKFriction and commented:
A city of blue.. think I shall add this to my bucket list.
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Many thanks for the re-blog. 🙂
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This looks like a really pretty place. I’m surprised people can pick themselves up out of the lull to move on to the next place!
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Hi, it is a gorgeous place and one that is hard to leave as the blues make this town quite serene.
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Chefchaouen is such a lovely and charming town! It was definitely one of the highlights of my trip to Morocco 🙂 Love your photos!
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Hi Maria, it certainly is a beautiful part of Morocco. I loved visiting Chefchaouen.
Thank you for your lovely feedback – much appreciated. 🙂
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Morocco
is a fantasy place for us to holiday! It just looks so lovely and so full of unbelievable culture. We are eager to visit in the next year or so when we are back in Europe we will make a side tour here for sure! What an incredible post, love the photo.
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Hi Sarah, thank you for your feedback and happy that you liked my post.
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I love to add a few days of trekking when I go on holiday and you’ve just given me the perfect idea for trekking in marocco. Thanks!
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No problem at all and glad to be of help. Enjoy Morocco, it’s a fabulous country.
The Sahara was pretty incredible also and easily organised from Marrakech.
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Nice Article! Have you done Akchour falls while in Chefchaouen? I put together this post about this hidden paradise 🙂
http://livewithhabiba.com/index.php/2018/11/01/a-complete-guide-to-hiking-akchour-morocco/
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Thank you, no I didn’t, I’ll take a look.
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Stunning!
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Thank you Madhuri! Chefchaouen is a stunning city.
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Wow! Absolutely wonderful!
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Thank you Ritu! It’s a stunning destination.
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It looks it!
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I love the photos so much. Morocco 🇲🇦 is a nice place
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Thank you!
Yes, Morocco is a stunning country of varying contrasts.
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Oh… my… gosh… I THOROUGHLY enjoyed EVERY bit of this! I didn’t get to go to Chef when I was in Morocco and I was so sad, but this…. this made me feel like I was able to take a glimpse💕
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Thank you! What a shame you didn’t go as it’s such a stunning city…a good excuse to return to Morocco. 😉
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Just stunning….colours are amazing!
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Thank you! It’s a stunning city. 🙂
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Vielen Dank . Ich finde die Farben auch wunderbar. Werde wieder vorbeischauen
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Many thanks for your kind feedback! 🙂
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this city is impressive and your photos are truly awesome 🙂 PedroL
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Thank you Pedrol – very kind. It’s a pretty awesome city. 🙂
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Your colours are amazing. Great photography. 🙂
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Thank you – it’s an amazing city. 🙂
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Chefchaouen must be amazing! You captured it beautifuly 🙂
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Thank you Laura. Hope I’ve inspired you to visit Chefchaouen. 🙂
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and I love the blues 💙
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The blues make it such a magical place.
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I’d love to go here, it’s just so beautiful and it being more relaxed than the bigger cities is good in my book! I wonder whether this would be a good introduction to Morocco for someone’s first time there? Happy weekend Nilla xx
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Hi Gill, you’d love it there and it would be a good introduction as it’s a little quieter than its neighbouring popular cities on the milk-run. Although, living in Bangkok, you’re probably used to all that anyway. Have a wonderful weekend! 🙂 x
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Loving the photos Nilla, you have definitely captured the essence of that country, as usual, I might add 🙂 Blue is one of my favourite colours!! Sitting outside in my new portable office and looking at the clear blue sky, the weather has been great.
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Thank you Suzanne.
I went a little mad photographing the blues in Chefchaouen and have many more, but didn’t want to bore anyone with too many photos. 😉
Sounds ideal and glad the sun is holding up for you guys.
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Unless you don’t like the color of blue, haha
Beautiful pictures as always. I liked the lamp in previous post at lot.
I heard a lot of rain fell down lately in Italy…Hope all is well at your end?
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Very true, although you can’t but help like the hues surrounding you in Chefchaouen – it’s surreal.
Really? We haven’t hardly had any here in the south. All OK here and with you?
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Not? Hm, the weatherman said so. Well, I learned you can’t trust those often anyways, haha Better look outside yourself.
Anyways, I am ok, thank you for asking 🙂
XxX
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Ha, ha it’s just started spitting lightly on and off this afternoon. 😉 x
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OMG the different shades of blue are incredible! This place looks very peaceful and a bit closer to what I imagine Morocco to be! I’m really enjoying these posts!
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Excellent and I’m glad you’re enjoying my Morocco posts. You’ll have to go and see Morocco for yourself now. 🙂
I would definitely return to Chefchaouen, if nothing else but just to stay and relax surrounded by stunning blues.
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Super Journey
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Indeed it was…the whole month in Morocco was excellent.
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What dramatic colours!!
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Absolutely and stunning Mita!
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Wonderful post, and beautiful writing! I’ve never heard of Chefchaouen before I got on Instagram, but now it seems like it’s exploded in popularity. I love your idea of staying at a smaller riad, too.. And I’ve never heard of Ceuta, but then again exploring off the beaten path is one of my favorite ways to travel so I’m looking forward to those posts.
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Thank you – I appreciate your feedback!
It’s best to visit these places before the Guide books make them too popular, becoming a milk-run. Without a definite itinerary and time constraints, it’s much easier to find the less traversed paths. 🙂
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I love blue and these photos are gorgeous. The colour really accentuates the vibrant textiles too. I’m not sure about taking that nerve-wracking bus ride though.
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Thank you! Ah well, I think a taxi driver would be just as crazy…sometimes you just have to push the boat out. 😉
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Or travel with your eyes closed!
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Ha, ha, that’s an option but I’ve never been able to do that – miss too much scenery and beautiful things!
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I love your photos! I visited Chef city in February and was blown away. Morocco is a place of wonder.
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Thank you Cansu – I love taking them!
Yes, Morocco is a wonderful country. Where did you visit and for how long was your trip?
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I went to Tangier, Chefchouen, and Fez! I can’t wait to go back one day and do a desert tour.
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Cool. Not sure if you’ve seen my posts on Tangier and Fes. My post on the Saharan Desert may help for when you return. 😉
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Reblogged this on LIFE STORY'S FROM LINCOLN.
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Many thanks Andy! 🙂
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