August, 2011
Overland borders in South America can be stressful, although hoping for a smooth crossing from Bolivia’s Copacabana to Peru’s Puno today…
The last overland border crossing from Argentina to Chile did not go well.
After waiting in Salta for ten days and sitting on the 6-hour bus journey, our bus was turned back just before the border – 13 hours later and we were back in Salta from where we started. Giving up the dream of seeing the Atacama Desert, decided to take an overnight bus that same evening and cross in to Bolivia instead.
So long Bolivia, until we meet again – it’s been an incredible ten weeks…

Travel
As the travel between the Copacabana (Copa) and Puno border crossing closes at any whim, or you can experience long delays during road detours, there are several options to cross.
The preferred option is a three to four-hour public bus, especially if you’re short on time. The other is by boat across Lake Titicaca, which can take around ten hours – although have read that sometimes, it’s not safe on the Puno side. You can also squeeze on a Collectivo (minivan) from Copa’s Plaza Sucre – drivers shout out for business to Kasani.
Crossing borders
The Kasani/Yunguyo border is open today, so decided on the public bus. A tourist bus isn’t required and is more expensive.

Exiting Bolivia
A few kilometres from Copa and you arrive at the Migracion Kasani Bolivia. Hand over your green immigration card you received on entering Bolivia and receive your exit stamp at no charge. Absorb the stunning lake vistas whilst waiting at this picturesque border crossing.
Entering Peru
The stone arch displaying a Peru sign separates Bolivia and Peru, with immigration thirty metres down the road, on your right. Depending on your nationality, it’s free entry to Peru for ninety days. (Make sure you have 6 months left on your passport, but this is a requirement in most countries.)
A Peruvian bus takes you on the rest of the lovely journey, which follows Lake Titicaca around and on to Puno.
At times, the road shaves the sides of steep hilltops. Depending on your driver’s expertise or attitude, this can be a scary ride – especially whilst locals scream at the driver to slow down around bends, for fear of driving over a cliff and into the lake. Welcome to Peru!

Puno
At over 3,800 metres high and situated between mountains and the shores of Lake Titicaca, the city of Puno is more of a transit hub between Peru and Bolivia. And so, sees indigenous Andeans constantly migrating through Puno en-route to larger Peruvian cities. The black market is thriving with cheap goods smuggled in from Bolivia.

Stories of scammers and being taken advantage of in Puno are plentiful.

Understandably, as the city is a border hub then there are always opportunists waiting to fleece an unsuspecting gringo. Apart from several seedy streets, we managed to escape scamming in Puno.

Llamas and Alpacas are also an important export for the city.
Sights
Although the city doesn’t hold major tourist sites and seems a little run-down, the Plaza de Armas is worth visiting, especially during a parade…and parades there are many in South America.

Everyone loves to participate in a parade…

Sounds are not always in tune, but a hundred points for trying.

And some spectators, just get too tired…

If you feel like taking a walk through Puno’s streets, then just remember that the poorer areas are up very steep unpaved roads, which are not accessed by vehicles.

This seems to be common in South America – poorer locals live a hike up hills, whilst richer locals live at the base of a hill/mountain in the city or town itself.

Lake Titicaca
The mystical shores of Lake Titicaca are wonderful for strolling along and at almost 4,000 metres high, it’s hard to get your head around the lake being the ‘highest navigable stretch of water in the world’.

I never tire of the stunning vistas, with the towering Andes as a backdrop – a very special region.

Meandering along the magnificent lake shores, you never know what you are going to find whilst exploring…
SS Yavari
Literally bumped into the ship Yavari hanging off a dilapidated timber wharf, during a wander along the waterfront one day.
A little background on the ship as it really does carry a ton of fascinating history and is also the ‘oldest propeller-driven working ship in the world’.
Designed as a gunboat for the Peruvian Navy, the Yavari also carried passengers and cargo across the lake.

Two of these ships were eventually built in the late 1800s in a ‘knock down’ form. This kit form sees ships built in the original shipyard, in this instance back in the Thames Ironworks – London, dismantled into thousands of small parts for transporting around Cape Horn, shipped to a final destination, transported by Llama and mules across the Andes to the lake, then reassembled by English engineers, and launched. Transporting all of the boat’s sections to the lake took six years.
In the 1930s, you could catch a train from Argentina’s Buenos Aires to La Paz in Bolivia. Steam trains continued the journey to Lake Titicaca, where steam ships such as the Yavari picked up passengers to cross the lake and into Peru. What an incredible journey that no longer exists.

Undergoing restoration since 1987, the polished brass and highly varnished timbers are a pleasure, as so often, ships, planes, trains, and vehicles are left to rust in South America’s harsh conditions.
Originating from Somerset, Southwest England, the engine is still functioning, which delighted my partner – also from the same county.

This 150-year-old British gunboat is now a floating Bed & Breakfast. What a shame our accommodation is pre-paid, otherwise, I definitely would stay in the tranquillity of this beautifully maintained ship on Lake Titicaca. How romantic staying in a piece of history on this lake, situated over four kilometres above sea level.
Further along from the SS Yavari and another 19th-century steam ship the SS Coya, waits patiently on shore, almost marooned.

Now used as a floating restaurant, Coya is not quite as well-maintained as the Yavari, which was purchased by an English woman for restoration.

Day trips from Puno
If you’re staying in Puno for a few days, then indulge in a couple of inexpensive day trips, as this city is a good starting point and base.
Although touristy, Taquille and Uros Islands are worth visiting. Uros Islands are floating islands made of reeds and visiting both islands make an interesting day trip, whilst taking in more superb views of Lake Titicaca.
Another great half-day trip is to the Qulla people’s Sillustani Burial Towers, which date back to the 15th century.
Both tours are excellent and fascinating.
Accommodation
Inka’s Rest provides a comfortable private double room (hostel rooms available), private bathroom, and a good breakfast is included in the room’s price. Alfredo the manager, is very helpful and accommodating, and can organise most day tours.
The cafe at the Inka’s Rest is also a great chill spot, serving good food in a relaxed ambience.
Leaving Puno
Deciding to throw ourselves into the difficult three-day/two-night trek in one of the world’s deepest canyons: Colca Canyon, finally leaving magical Lake Titicaca behind and taking a bus to beautiful Arequipa.
Visit Nilla’s Photography for more images. More posts on Bolivia and Peru at Image Earth Travel.


Nilla, I always appreciate how much research you put into your travels & posts – many thanks 🙂
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Hi Da-al, thank you and hope that you make this crossing one day, it’s more than ‘interesting’! 😉
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The bus ride sounds similar to the Amalfi Coast. The locals telling the bus driver to slow down would bring my fear factor up a notch or three! haha
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Ha, ha it does indeed and yes, it did!
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Thanks for the trip. I understand hats in the Andes are different from one village to the other? Or am I making this up?
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No problem and thanks for coming along.
I’m pretty sure you’re correct but then different hats are worn for different occasions so, I could never work out which hat was worn when! 😉
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Ok. So the hats are a means of communication. 🙂 The language of hats…
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Yes, I believe hats are and instantly recognisable to locals.
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I will eventually go to Peru and Bolivia. We’re not that far. 🙂
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Exactly, you are close and have no excuse. 😉
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I know, I know… But holidays are limited in time, and the next trip is to visit my in-laws in Colombia… 😉
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That sounds fantastic, lucky you. I need to return to South America and explore Colombia. 🙂
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Colombia is very beautiful. Worth quite some time to visit.
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Yes, I have a few Colombian friends.
Think I mentioned before, I’ve only been to Leticia, the tri-border with Brazil and Peru, deep in the Amazon.
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Yes, I remember that. You and I have walked the same steps… 😉
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Indeed we have… 😉
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Another awesome read where I felt I was right there 😊
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Thank you for the feedback guys and glad you enjoyed the post. 🙂
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Fabulous! Your pics are great, I like the one with the tuk-tuks in the town and the ships too 🙂 x
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Thanks Gill.
The photos don’t look that clear as WP compresses them even further when uploading to the library. Clicking the actual image displays it larger and much clearer. Have a great weekend. 🙂 x
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Oh I remember doing this! Really must publish my Lake Titicaca posts. Thanks for sharing!
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It takes a while to get around to it… 😉
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Beautiful pictures! I’ve never had any issues crossing borders in South America, although I did get into trouble crossing into Chile with some forgotten cherries still in my bag. They took them, and then they decided that my smoked and salted almonds and raisins (trail mix for my hike) were seeds and needed to be thrown away too! I think they were just annoyed that they had to go through my bag multiple times.
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Thank you.
I now what you mean. I had a bunch of bananas confiscated at the Argentina/Chile border. The Chilean Customs lady gingerly put them aside next to her (probably taking them home), not in the bin, and wouldn’t let us eat any…
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They can be so mean about it! Looking through the comments I see you had some kind of robbery happen in Peru…? Sorry to hear that but glad you’re ok!
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Indeed, put anyone in a uniform…
Yes, I will write about this soon as Peru is my next country to catch up on. We had a few incidents in Sth America and after nine months of travelling there, had not met one traveller that had not been robbed or scammed in some way.
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Bought back lots of memories for me. I loved the parades and the hats and the clothes. Great post.
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Thank you and I’m happy that my post brought back many memories. The clothes and hats are fabulous, and worn with such style. If I wore a Bowler hat, I’d probably look ridiculous!
How long did you travel in South America for and what countries did you visit?
I have loads more posts to come on Peru, then on to Ecuador briefly.
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I really enjoyed reading your post, lots of great information and beautiful pictures.
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Hey Jamie…many thanks for your cool feedback and hope you can use this information on a future trip.
I’ll have to re-visit beautiful NZ one day as I haven’t been since 1985!
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Oh I’m sure it’s changed ‘heeps’ as they say here since then! It’s such a magical place, but the worlds a big place too!
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Ha, ha haven’t heard that expression for some years now. Doing ‘time’ in Italy at the moment but sure I’ll return one day. 😉
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You really did have a marvellous adventure. I’m not sure it is a place we would travel independently in, but you seemed to manage unscathed.
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Fantastic time, but not unscathed…many posts to come yet on Peru. 😉
Only did guided tours when on treks as mostly, it’s necessary or obligatory.
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Such a lot of great information. Thanks for writing all of it down so entertainingly 🙂
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Thank you for your cool feedback and glad you enjoyed my post. 🙂
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The Cholitas photo is fabulous! Thanks for the armchair travel. -Rebecca
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Thank you Rebecca and glad you enjoyed the trip.
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Oh, I love the idea of staying on a Gunboat, looks very interesting!!
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Yeah me too, would of been fantastic…next time.
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Always the possibility of a next time!
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Of course and especially as we were robbed big time in Peru and my partner lost all his Machu Picchu (and USA) photos…good excuse for a re-visit. 😉
I was lucky…only lost my Word doco with my updated Sth America blogs – scratching my head to remember it all now.
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Yes, I remember you telling me. Very gut wrenching!!
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Ah well, the joys of travelling.
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