Loving Tuscany’s Lucca

Tuscany’s medieval Lucca holds you captivate until you fall in love with this gorgeous walled city near the Ligurian Sea.

Using Pisa as a base to explore Tuscany, train travel to Lucca, Florence, and Siena couldn’t be easier.

Tip: This article is now available as a mobile app on iTunes and GooglePlay. Go to GPSmyCity to download the app for GPS-assisted travel directions to the attractions featured in this article.


Lucca’s commanding medieval wall encircles the historic centre and confronts you at its imposing gates. Once within the confine of the walls, the stillness of the city and friendliness of locals riding bicycles or enjoying a cafe in one of the many piazzas is calming.

Streets are kept in pristine condition and Lucca doesn’t feel overrun by tourists as other cities like Florence feels.

Without a travel itinerary, it’s pleasurable just taking your time to absorb Lucca’s relaxed pace.

What to see

One day in Lucca is just not enough to absorb this wonderful Tuscan city.

With a deluge of ancient churches, museums, medieval architecture and of course the city’s walls, you’ll want to stay much longer.

Le Mura di Lucca

At 11 to 12-metres high, Lucca’s Renaissance 9-metre-wide walls stretch 4.2-kilometres, encircling the city with this 4th construction of the walls, dating back to the mid-1600s to early 1800s.

The first construction built by the Romans was in the 2nd-century BC, followed by a second construction in the Middle Ages and finishing in 1270.

Similar to the current walls, the third construction started at the end of the 1500s. Advancing military technology propelled the rebuilding and fortification of the walls.

The only time the walls were used for defensive purposes was in 1812 when the River Serchio flooded forcing the closure and reinforcement of all the gates to save the city.

A small section of the walls was turned into a green space in 1812, followed by a public park in the late 1800s.

Today, the walls offer wonderful relaxation and recreational areas, meeting points, picnic tables and benches, fresh drinking fountains, and a great path for walking.

Six main entrance gates, another three ancient gates, eleven bastions, and several secondary doors allow entrance to the city.

Porta San Pietro

One of the oldest gates, the fortified southern gate dates back to 1565-1566 and is the closest to the train station.

Two grand stone lions guard the original heavy wooden studded gates. Lucca’s motto and the spirit of the city: Libertas’ adorns the central arch.

Porta dei Borghi

The intriguing northern gate built in 1198 and 1265 is used as private residences and provides a grand entrance to Lucca’s main street via Fillungo.

Porta San Gervasio

Blocked to traffic perhaps due to the narrow entrance, the 8-metre-high medieval San Gervasio gate was completed in 1255.

‘City of 100 Churches’

To say there’s a church on almost every corner in the city is a slight exaggeration, although Lucca boasts a plethora of churches and the reason for its title.

As you wander through Lucca, you can’t but help bump into a church.

Church of San Giusto

The second half of the 12th century saw the current church including its superb two-coloured façade built on top of an older building.

Hailed as one of Guidetti (Florentine architect) workshop’s most important works, the doorway is decorated with two protruding lions supported by twisting atlantes.

Basilica of San Frediano

Constructed during the 6th-century and renovated in the 12th-century, the striking façade, which includes an inlaid mosaic using glass, gold, and precious stone representing The Ascension of Christ the Saviour that was added in the 13th-century.

Santi Paolino e Donato

Dedicated to Lucca’s patron Saint Paulinus of Antioch, the current church isn’t the original (San Giorgio) built here in 738.

Dedicated to St Anthony, another church was built after the year 1000, followed by yet another church in 1261, with the present church built in 1515.

Statues of Saints Donato and Paolino added in 1710 on the marble façade, guard the entrance.

Rich frescos adorn the interior of the church as does a marble choir by Vincenzo and Nicolao Civitali (son of Matteo Civitali, sculptor of San Michele in Foro’s madonna).

San Michele in Foro

Built over the ancient Roman forum and with its first mention in 795, this impressive basilica was rebuilt after 1070.

The intricate façade is adorned at the very top with 2 angels framing a 4-metre-tall statue of Saint Michael the Archangel.

To celebrate the end of the 1476 plague, a sculpture of the Madonna Salutis Portus, by Lucca’s sculptor Matteo Civitali graces the basilica’s lower-right corner.

Cathedrale di San Martino

Dating back to 1063 and built in a quieter part of the city amongst expansive grounds, the cathedral’s polychrome marble façade is similar to Pisa’s Cathedral.

Valuable works by Italian artists from the Renaissance period are housed inside as are Jacopo Tintoretto’s Last Supper, Federico Zuccari’s Adoration of the Magi, and Fra Bartolomeo’s Madonna and Child.

Check the narrower arch on the right for a labyrinth bas-relief with an inscription that recalls the myth of Theseus and Ariadne. Even after centuries of study, its significance and meaning are still a mystery.

The rear of the cathedral is just as spectacular and its surrounding manicured lawn is a great resting spot.

Piazza Cittadella

Steeped in history, this famous piazza popular with locals is where the Italian composer Giacomo Puccini (best known for La Boheme and Madama Butterfly) was born in 1858 – his home is now the Puccini Museum.

The fabulous bronze statue of Puccini created by Vito Tongiani further enhances Piazza Cittadella.

Piazza San Michele

During the Roman age, Piazza San Michele served as the centre of Lucca and you can discover important buildings such as the San Michele in Foro in this piazza.

Constructed in the 16th-century as a Hall of Justice with many changes to the building over the centuries and completed in 1588, Palazzo Pretorio is now used by the civil law courts.

A dramatic statue of one of Lucca’s sons – Matteo Civitali sculptor, architect, painter, and engineer – stands poised in the centre of the building.

Museo della Tortura

For those wanting to see a little of history’s macabre torture implements and methods, then visit the Museum of Torture. The entrance is free although entry to the museum is €10, so gave this one a miss.

Street scenes

A pleasurable stroll through Lucca’s cobbled alleyways reveals hidden street gems.

Wrapped up for Christmas in Piazza Bernardini, visit Mode Mignon for luxury clothing.

Turn any corner and Lucca reveals time-worn cloisters and marvellous architecture still standing after centuries.

Pop-art also finds its way into the city…

One last peaceful walk of the walls before leaving Lucca.

Getting there

The comfortable modern Trenitalia (€3.60 one-way) from Pisa to Lucca leaves every 40-minutes depending on the time of year and takes around half an hour.

Make sure you validate your ticket before boarding the train as you can be fined up to €60 for not validating – there are no machines once on the train.

Forgetting to validate tickets today as too busy chatting, the conductor politely explains the situation before producing a €10-fine for both – it could have been €120.


Once validated the train ticket only lasts for 4 hours.

Where to eat

Lucca’s culinary claim to fame is the rich bright yellow pasta Tortelli Lucchese, which is stuffed with seasoned meat and smothered with a meat-laden ragù.

If you don’t eat meat, then the soup of farro made with a barley-type grain and served with beans may be a tasty alternative.

Opting for a few coffee, local pastry and delicious savoury stops throughout the day, giving the traditional huge sit-down 3-course meal a miss.

Ninci Frediano e Figli

On Piazza Napoleone 2, many locals frequent this cosy bar with only a few tiny tables and chairs inside, a few more outside.

A little pricey for a morning cappuccino (€2) and brioche (€3) – owners are friendly enough.

Loads of chocolates and gourmet packaged cakes fill empty nooks, although these may be because of Christmas.

Il Bernino di Stella Polare

On via Fillungo 86, this swish cafe offers free wi-fi whilst you enjoy an excellent coffee (€1.10+) and pastry (€1+) surrounded in a very modern ambience.

I’m not sure if it’s customary in Lucca that when you return your coffee cup and plate to the counter, you’re charged a cheaper price than what’s on the menu – does anyone know?

Pasticceria Dianda

Along via S. Paolino 93, this has to be one of Lucca’s cheapest cafes.

Great service from very friendly staff and excellent coffee (€1+), tea (€1.50), and yummy savouries (€1+).

Leaving Lucca

After an amazing but long day exploring Lucca and still not seeing everything Lucca offers, it’s time to take the return train to Pisa for a little R&R.

Visit Nilla’s Photography for more global images. More posts on Italy.

38 responses to “Loving Tuscany’s Lucca”

  1. sooffwego Avatar

    Great post about Lucca. So happy to see people loving my new hometown!

    1. Image Earth Travel Avatar

      Thank you Sheri, you’re lucky to be living in Lucca – it’s a gorgeous town!
      For how long have you been in this beautiful part of Italy? Are you there long term?

  2. LuLu B - Calabrisella Mia Avatar

    Tuscany looks beautiful! The Porto San Pietro is impressive too and I love how the churches are not all exactly the same – they each have a certain uniqueness to them!

    1. Image Earth Travel Avatar

      It really is a beautiful region of Italy and I’d like to return as 12 days and only one day in Lucca just wasn’t enough exploring.
      Thanks for your feedback!

  3. the eternal traveller Avatar

    I’m always amazed by how the buildings and city walls are built one layer over another, incorporating what was already there. The basilica with that beautiful mosaic is gorgeous.

    1. Image Earth Travel Avatar

      Exactly…here in Cosenza the old town is also built over another town.
      Lucca is lovely!

  4. V_McFarland Avatar

    Wow, this looks like it’d be so much fun to explore! Especially for my husband, who’s super into history.
    We’re wanting to take a trip to Europe next year, so we’ll definitely have to consider adding these to our list!


    1. Image Earth Travel Avatar

      Lucca is wonderful and if you do get to this city, then I’d suggest take more than one day to see this gorgeous city as one day isn’t enough.
      Many thanks for your comment.

  5. Rosaliene Bacchus Avatar

    Thanks for the follow 🙂

    1. Image Earth Travel Avatar

      Hi Rosaliene, thanks for stopping by…

  6. pathwaysandpatinas Avatar

    Can’t wait to visit here. I’ve been to Italy many times but need to make the effort to visit Lucca.

    1. Image Earth Travel Avatar

      Hi Janet, hope you get to Lucca and many thanks for commenting.
      I love Lucca and it’s so relaxed compared to Florence. My post on Siena is scheduled for Sunday – another gorgeous city to mark on your travel list.
      Just visited your blog site but can’t leave you any comments.

  7. Ntensibe Edgar Michael Avatar

    Tuscany….this is one city I must visit soon….the exact same way I visited Dar-es-Salaam!

    1. Image Earth Travel Avatar

      Lucca is a gorgeous city in the Tuscany region and hope you travel there soon before it becomes too touristy.
      I haven’t visited Dar-es-Salaam but would love to one day…
      Many thanks for your comment.

  8. Lisa Avatar

    We live in Italy, but have yet to visit Lucca! I’m on my way now!

    1. Image Earth Travel Avatar

      Hi Lisa, thank you for your comment.
      Lucca is definitely worth a visit as is Siena – check out my article on Sunday.
      Where in Italy do you live?

  9. Megala Avatar

    Wonderful post! It is so frightening to see the museum of torture.

    1. Image Earth Travel Avatar

      Thank you for your great feedback!
      Only visited the foyer and didn’t go right through the museum as thought it was a bit pricey.

  10. momentarylocals Avatar

    I was there January of this year and really loved it! Was chilly and it rained a couple days but still an amazing place!

    1. Image Earth Travel Avatar

      Must of just missed you Chris and Carina as I was there end of December until January 2nd – would love to return!

      1. momentarylocals Avatar

        Us too! You did an awesome job highlighting all the great things and sights of Lucca! Although we did miss a couple spots you mentioned so I guess we’re gonna have to go back 🙂

      2. Image Earth Travel Avatar

        Thank you! I could easily return and spend a week there but sure I still won’t see everything – just really enjoyed the pace there as not as rushed as Florence.

  11. Suellen Tomkins - Wild Heart Gypsy Spirit Avatar

    I loved Lucca so much when we were there. Great town to explore by foot or bike. We even went to a concert in an unconsecrated church. I actually didn’t realise there were quite as many churches until I saw your photos show.
    Terrific to revisit this town through your post.

    1. Image Earth Travel Avatar

      I’m with you Suellen, loved Lucca and would love to return – when were you there?
      It’s such an easy city to just wander around and discover what ever pops up around the corner. Stay tuned for my Siena post next week. 😉

  12. Valerie Cullers Avatar

    So beautiful…makes me miss Italy today! Love the photos!

    1. Image Earth Travel Avatar

      Thank you Valerie for your lovely comment and yes, Italy does have a habit of getting under your skin…

  13. Dave Ply Avatar

    I hadn’t heard of Lucca the town, although there is an Italian restaurant in town by that name. I wonder if they’re connected? There’s some interesting old architecture in the town, maybe the restaurant has some well-constructed pasta dishes…

    1. Image Earth Travel Avatar

      Hi Dave, had to rescue your comment from my Trash folder – pesky WP!
      They probably are connected and I’m sure if the restaurant is run by an Italian, you’ll enjoy great pasta – give it a go… 😉

  14. writingroma Avatar

    I’m trying to convince the family to chose Lucca. Must try harder …

    1. Image Earth Travel Avatar

      Do try harder as it’s gorgeous. My Siena post is out next week. 😉

  15. Suzanne Avatar

    Beautiful visuals Nila. Love reading about Italy as you know 😊 x

    1. Image Earth Travel Avatar

      Thank you Suzanne, it’s a beautiful place. Have you visited Lucca on your travels?
      Yes, I know you love reading about Italy. 😉

  16. Abirbhav Avatar

    A brilliant post as usual depicting the beauty of Lucca..
    Thank you very much Madam for sharing.. 😀
    A question: How to validate the ticket? Is there any machine for doing the same? (Like in Germany, such machines usually exist on the platforms)

    1. Image Earth Travel Avatar

      Thank you for the feedback.
      Yes, there’s a machine to validate your ticker at the train station but not a machine on the train. 😉

  17. Nidhi Gupta Avatar

    Wow Wow Wow… loved it and all tempted to travel.

    1. Image Earth Travel Avatar

      Thank you Nidhi for the grea feedback and happy that you enjoyed my post! 🙂

  18. Mohamad Toutounji Avatar

    I’m really into medieval castles and armies
    I really enjoyed reading this post

    1. Image Earth Travel Avatar

      Thank you for your kind feedback and support Mohamad!

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